Adventures in Skirt Skills – (2) planning the skirt

Planning my skirt!  – the real one

Now that I have a well-fitted block and I’ve savored all of Brooks Ann Camper couture techniques and tips in her videos I’ve settled on what I’d like to make.

I’m the kind of human who loves to make a plan, consider all the details, and then jump in and see where it takes me.  

Free to change and shift as needed.  If we’re ever on a road trip together, this is exactly how I like to travel too…map it out, consider what I want to see, begin, and then throw it all the winds and pivot as desired.  But I need that plan to get started.  It’s a comfort thing!

Before I share my road map…as someone who teaches garment sewing, sews most of my wardrobe (almost entirely out of knit fabrics), and drafts, digitizes, and grades sewing patterns for others…I was excited to be a beginner again and find out how I would expand when learning from Brooks Ann.  

And while I’m not finished and I’m sure more lessons will present themselves, I am loving that my mindset that is shifting.    

Slowing down.  Embracing, like fully embracing, hand sewing.   Experimenting without the pressure of a wearable garment at the end, but with curiosity and joy for the process.  Allowing curiosity to drive all projects…not just ones I deem as “worthy”.   Ushering in a new level of artistry!  

I love hearing and watching Brooks Ann talk about how she sews and how she…one step at a time…finishes her garments.  It’s so different than how I’ve gone about it…while at the same time not being so different that I can’t feel myself expand into it. Allowing her techniques and her mindset to augment a great practice that I already have.  

It’s a very lovely up-leveling.  

Okay, here’s my road map…

Step one – Pattern manipulation

Create a taller, 3″ waistband with a facing that is shaped at the top to accommodate my “suspenders”.  I’ll make the waistband 1 1/2 inches taller than my block.  

Add princess seams where the front and back darts are located.

Add trumpet skirt shaping. Coming in and then flaring at the knee (what can I say, I was inspired by the videos!) I considered adding a left leg slit, but decided against it…for now.

Working on the mockup above is my next project.

Thoughts on Finishing

Add a left-side lapped zipper with a hook at the top.

Use a 3-inch grosgrain ribbon in the waistband, considering how to “interface” the little points that will go up for shaping and have a screw rivet in them to accommodate the “suspenders”.    I’ll then use hand sewing! to attach the waistband facing to the inside of the skirt.  

Underline the skirt with a smooth, fine cotton as I’m using a rather scratchy rustic wool, but am not a fan of linings.    I believe I’ll finish the side seams using stitch and pink or perhaps my serger, depending on how grabby that ends up being on leggings….my leg covering of choice.  As a wildcard – I MAY cover the seams with a binding and have top stitching along both sides of each seam on the public side!

I’ll use bias binding – homemade – on the hem and then possibly hand stitch it with the catch stitch.


My next steps…

I need to first, manipulate the pattern and sew a mock-up.  I’m committing right here and now to use thread marking (which is a tiny battle with my old mindset!) on the mockup.

Then I need to purchase underlining fabric, a zipper, and a 3″ grosgrain ribbon.

And as to the final fabric…two years ago, I made a vest out of the same fabric I’m using for this skirt!    Throw on my fedora and wowza!!!  I’m so excited at the prospect!

Find out how that skirt turned out in part 3 of “Adventures in Skirt Skills”.